Mokume’s Value & Designing Your Engagement Ring

Many couples come to us to design their mokume engagement ring. The first thing to know is that a mokume gane ring is different from a traditional ring in that mokume holds value. Mokume does not depreciate because the labor in making mokume is so great and requires such skill. It is inherently an heirloom and still very much an investment secret given its obscure nature. So if you are considering the long term value of your ring this is a great choice. 

ring with a solitaire stone set in prongs, featuring marquise shaped white stone, band portion is made with yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver

 Choosing Between Lab Grown and Natural Diamonds.

Lab-grown and natural diamonds are chemically and physically identical. Both are composed of pure carbon, but they originate from different sources. Natural diamonds are formed within the Earth over billions and billions of years, while lab-grown diamonds are manufactured in a lab within a few weeks. Lab-grown diamonds are generally more affordable and could be considered more environmentally conscious, with a price that is typically 1/10th of that of natural diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds exhibit the same chemical properties and hardness as natural diamonds and are graded in the same manner. Experts assert that they appear indistinguishable. 

Natural diamonds possess a higher rarity and traditional appeal, as well as inherent value. The value of natural diamonds will hold over time due to the limited supply of an earth resource. Some people feel that things grown in nature are more powerful because they have absorbed the energy of the earth and of time.  There are also some environmental considerations, such as the impact of diamond mining. 

mokume gane tension set ring with diamond in guri bori pattern and gold and silver

If you are shopping for larger diamonds, consider the four C’s, the color, carat, clarity and cut. These aspects can influence the overall cost of the diamond. Knowing which of the qualities matters most to you and your significant other can help you bring down the stone cost. You don’t have to follow a formula, choose what matters most to you. You could also consider some out of the box designs like many small less expensive stones scattered around the ring like so many stars, or tucked into a valley or summit, or a n eddy of a mokume swirl. With hand crafted work of this caliber the sky is the limit. 

  • Ethics: Lab-grown stones were initially viewed as an attractive option for those concerned about “blood diamonds,” which are mined in conflict zones and utilized for purposes of conflict and human rights abuses. However, experts have noted that the diamond industry has made progress in identifying and eliminating these diamonds. The Kimberley Process, an international trade regulation established in 2003, facilitates monitoring of the diamond supply chain and ensures that diamonds sold by rebel groups are not traded.
  • Environmental impact: Lab-grown diamonds are considered “greener,” but their sustainability remains uncertain. They require more energy due to their laboratory production. For the most beneficial impact, it may be advisable to consider a second-hand or repurposed diamond.
  • Value over time:  Lab-grown diamonds do not typically retain their value, however within a mokume ring they will do so more.  A high-quality natural diamond or gemstone has the potential to appreciate or even increase in value over time notwithstanding the mokume setting. A natural stone set in mokume will increase in value. 

When designing or choosing your wedding rings, there are no rules that need to be followed. After working with thousands of amazing clients and collectors we know when a couple is on track to create a special ring. Prioritizing personal aesthetics and concepts above the traditional idea of spending a lot of money on a stone most often lead to the happiest outcomes for many of our clients. Some clients have strong ideas on specifications on the stones and that is always welcome, honored, and integrated into the design. Often couples bring in family gems to feature  that may have special significance to the client. We are honored to create these pieces.  This heirloom piece of jewelry will be unique and be virtually singular in its beauty. It will be a one of a kind, non -reproducible piece that may be passed down for generations to come. This way of creating is what we have found to be the most gentle on the planet and that leads to the happiest outcomes.

This is a custom made Mokume Gane ring, made by arn krebs, featuring a unique carved angled profile and a modified cathedral style setting holding the large white center diamond. The diamond is square and set diagonally to the band, and is flanked on each side by seven small bead set black diamonds running parallel to the band. It's made in our Twist pattern and an upgraded 18kt version of our Firestorm palette, the metals in it are red gold yellow gold palladium and silver

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