Design Guide

Design a ring you’ll treasure forever!

All of our custom made mokume gane rings are available in any size, width, pattern, metal combination, and finish. Select a stone from our inventory, have us find something special, or provide your own stone for setting. All rings are made individually from start to finish. We can re-use your metal or give you credit in various ways. Please inquire with us about ways we can craft your vision.

Below you will find detailed descriptions for all of our design elements.

All Mokume patterns are achieved by one of two processes; carving or forging. Every item is individually made and will vary somewhat from other rings in the same pattern category.

Woodgrain

Carved pattern with large areas of color in organic shapes resembling islands.

Twist

Carved pattern with diagonal lines. A combination of flowing lines and wood grain style organic shapes.

Guri Bori

Textured carved pattern, 3D forms meant to feel like mountains or hills.

Twist/Droplet

Combination pattern alternates between a twist linear look and small dots to make the droplets.

Flow

Forged pattern, long thin lines with patterned knots throughout, knots are eyelike in shape.

Vortex

Forged pattern, all lines, symmetrical joint where the lines meet.

Droplet

Carved pattern, many small circular shapes clustered together looking like raindrops on water.

We offer two, three, and four stock metal combinations that use 14kt Yellow Gold, 14kt Red Gold, 14kt White Gold, Sterling Silver, and Palladium. Custom combinations, or upgrades like 18k gold, can be created for an additional fee.

Firestorm

Four colors made from red gold, yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver.

Ash

Two color combinations, alternating between a dark gray palladium metal and a very light almost white color. Made from palladium and sterling silver.

Embers

Three colors, alternating light red, dark gray, with a silver (light gray or black) layer in between each. Made from red gold, palladium and sterling silver.

Cinders

Three colors, all golds, alternating light red and rich golden yellow layers with warm dark gray layers in between. Made from red gold, 18kt yellow gold and palladium 500.

Blaze

Three colors, all golds, alternating light red and rich golden yellow layers with warm dark gray layers in between. Made from red gold, 18kt yellow gold and thin layers of palladium 500.

Fire

Three colors, alternating light red gold and golden yellow gold, with a silver (light gray or black) layer in between each. Made from red gold, yellow gold and silver.

Smoke

Three colors, alternating warm gray/brown, dark gray, with a silver (light gray) layer in between. Made from white gold, palladium and sterling silver.

Flame

Two colors, alternating between light gray palladium and a light red (non oxidized), or a dark almost black color and the light red (oxidized). Made from red gold and sterling silver.

Spark

Two colors, alternating light gray and a golden yellow (non oxidized), or a dark almost black color and the golden yellow (oxidized). Made from yellow gold and sterling silver.

Flare

Three colors, alternating golden yellow, dark gray, with a silver (light gray or black) layer in between each. Made from yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver.

Settings are how gemstones are physically held by the ring. Choose from prongs, bezel, flush, and more. The setting is an aesthetic and functional choice. Consult with us for advantages and disadvantages of the various setting styles and choose the one that suits your lifestyle.

Channel

Many small stones, usually diamonds or sapphires, are set in a channel that runs part way across the ring.

Bypass

The metal from the rings band curves around the stone to embrace it in an s-curve from two points.

Flush

Also called gypsy setting, when small stones are set in the band in a flat or flush way.

Open Channel

Many small stones, usually diamonds or sapphires, are set in a channel that runs part way across the ring and opens up on the sides of the channel to let light in.

Tension

The ring is formed so that it holds the stone, usually a sapphire or diamond through tension.

Bloom

The metal from the ring reaches around the stone from two sides and forms an open bezel.

Split Prong

The metal is shaped into claws or points and grips the stone from 2 points and can be made of gold, silver, palladium or mokume gane metal.

Cathedral

The ring is built up to surround the stone entirely and is made of the mokume gane metal the ring is made of. The stone is sunk into the ring so it sits flat.

Bezel

The metal surrounds the stone completely and can be made of gold, silver, palladium or mokume gane metal. The metal is added onto the ring.

Prong

The metal is shaped into claws or points and grips the stone from 4-6 points and can be made of gold, silver, palladium or mokume gane metal.

Stone placement can be utilized in many ways to create drama and interest. Stones can be centered and highlighted or placed organically like stars in the sky. There are so many options and we are happy to help think through and design with you.

Halo

A large, usually round center stone with many small stones around the center stone in a circle resembling a halo. Sapphires and diamonds are predominantly used.

Eternity

Many small stones, usually diamonds or sapphires, are set in a channel that runs all the way around the ring.

Organic

The stones are placed organically in the ring. They can be scattered according to how the pattern is designed.

Solitaire

One center stone as the centerpiece of the ring.

Side stones

The stones are placed with a center stone and two additional stones, one on either side of the solitaire.

Add design elements to your ring by adding a rail, liner, stratum, or ridge line to customize your band! Arn has developed the “ridge line” and the “stratum layer” as unique features that are inspired by mountain ridges, and layers of earth. Choose what suits you best!

Kazaru

Additional carving of the ring’s surface in various spots around the ring to create a subtle rippling, bumpy texture.

Stratum

A layer of an accent color of metal that runs through the ring in a stripe.

Ridgeline

A ridge that runs in the band creating a higher point such as in a mountain ridge.

Matching Sets

Two rings that match in pattern and palette. The two rings are made from the same billet of metal and are intrinsically the same.

Milgrain Rails

Rails that run on an edge of the ring that have a scalloped or indented repeating edge.

Rails

Metal rails on one or two edges of the ring that can add an accent color or shape to the band.

Contoured

The ring is curved and shaped to be wavy or to fit against another ring in a stack.

Hammered

The surface of the ring is hammered to make small shiny indents over the whole surface.

Liner

A layer of plain silver or gold is set inside the mokume ring so that the metal against the skin isn't mokume but is instead a plain metal.

All mokume rings have a satin finish and are available in an etched, etch & oxidized, or un-etched finishes.
The silver layer can be etched and oxidized to provide a beautiful dark contrast in the Mokume layers. Oxidizing is only offered on etched rings.

Un-etched

No etching of the silver layer so that all the layers of the mokume are the same.

Etched

When the silver layer is etched lightly to create valleys and lower patterns in the mokume. Giving the surface some texture

Etched and Oxidized

When the silver layer is etched lightly to create valleys and lower patterns in the mokume. Giving the surface some texture. The oxidizing simultaneously darkens the silver layer so it is a gray or black color.

We offer two profiles or fits with our rings, Low Dome and Flat. Both options are slightly rounded on the inside for a comfort fit.

Flat

The edges of the ring are flat against the finger such as a cut section of pipe would be. There are no domed sides. The outside of ring is flat with eased edges, the inside is comfort fit.

Low Dome

The ring is domed so that the edges against the finger are more comfortable to wear. The outside of ring has a low dome profile, rounded edges, the inside is comfort fit.