Design Guide

Design a ring you’ll treasure forever!​

All of our custom made mokume gane rings are available in any size, width, pattern, metal combination, and finish. Select a stone from our inventory, have us find something special, or provide your own stone for setting. All rings are made individually from start to finish. We can re-use your metal or give you credit in various ways. Please inquire with us about ways we can craft your vision.

Below you will find detailed descriptions for all of our design elements.

Patterns

All Mokume patterns are achieved by one of two processes; carving or forging. Every item is individually made and will vary somewhat from other rings in the same pattern category.

Cloud

Forged pattern made to resemble clouds and skies.

feather crop

Custom patterns are all made to order, please contact us if interested.

Dropet051722-21

Carved pattern, many small circular shapes clustered together looking like raindrops on water.

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Forged pattern, all straight lines running parallel around the ring.

Flow with Mokume Knots

Forged pattern, long thin lines with patterned knots throughout, knots are eyelike in shape.

Flow with Solid Knots

Forged pattern, long thin lines with patterned knots throughout, knots are eyelike in shape and made of one solid metal color.

GuriBori120922-037

Textured carved pattern, 3D forms meant to feel like mountains or hills.

Star

Carved pattern with diagonal lines that lead into starburst like shapes.

Twist080322-14

Carved pattern with diagonal lines. A combination of flowing lines and wood grain style organic shapes.

TwistDroplet041822-37

Combination pattern alternates between a twist linear look and small dots to make the droplets.

052824-020

Forged pattern, all lines, symmetrical joint where the lines meet.

Vortex Twist

Combination pattern with the forged linear elements of the Vortex pattern, and angled and carved elements of the Twist pattern for more movement.

Woodgrain062822-25

Carved pattern with large areas of color in organic shapes resembling islands.

Palettes

We offer two, three, and four stock metal combinations that use 14kt Yellow Gold, 14kt Red Gold, 14kt White Gold, Sterling Silver, and Palladium. Custom combinations, or upgrades like 18k gold, can be created for an additional fee.

Ash091622-32

palladium, sterling silver

042621-5

18kt yellow gold, 14kt red gold, 14kt palladium white gold

Cinders040521-8

14kt red gold, 14kt yellow gold, palladium

Custom Palette

Custom billets are made to order, please contact us for pricing.

Embers071921-22

14kt red gold, palladium, sterling silver

Fire010421-25

14kt red gold, 14kt yellow gold, sterling silver

Firestorm022423-025

14kt red gold, 14kt yellow gold, palladium, sterling silver

090721-14

14kt red gold, sterling silver

Flare071321-28

14kt yellow gold, palladium, sterling silver

Smoke

14kt white gold, palladium, sterling silver

Spark022423-011

14kt yellow gold, sterling silver

Settings

Settings are how gemstones are physically held by the ring. Choose from prongs, bezel, flush, and more. The setting is an aesthetic and functional choice. Consult with us for advantages and disadvantages of the various setting styles and choose the one that suits your lifestyle.

bar setting crop

A stone of matching width to the band is set flush, typically done with a baguette cut.

bead setting crop

Small stones are set snug side by side, held by tiny "prongs" carved right into the surface of the ring.

bezel crop

The metal surrounds the stone completely and can be made of gold, silver, palladium or mokume gane metal. The metal is added onto the ring.

bloom_x_thumb

The metal from the ring reaches around the stone from two sides and forms an open bezel.

Bypass-072621-32

The metal from the rings band curves around the stone to embrace it in an s-curve from two points.

Cathedral-071222-29

The ring is built up to surround the stone entirely and is made of the mokume gane metal the ring is made of. The stone is sunk into the ring so it sits flat.

channel cropped

Many small stones, usually diamonds or sapphires, are set in a channel that runs part way across the ring.

floating bezel crop

The stone is held in a bezel, held up from the rest of the band by arms reaching from the band.

Flush-061421-8

Also called gypsy setting, when small stones are set in the band in a flat or flush way.

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A large, usually round center stone with many small stones around the center stone in a circle resembling a halo. Sapphires and diamonds are predominantly used.

mesa crop

The stone is surrounded by a thick piece of metal, typically carved to match the texture of the Guri Bori pattern, resembling rock.

082801-004

The metal surrounds the stone completely and is also made of mokume gane.

Prongs-010322-8

The metal is shaped into claws or points and grips the stone from 4-6 points and can be made of gold, silver, palladium or mokume gane metal.

Split_Prong_092821-101

The metal is shaped into claws or points and grips the stone from 2 points and can be made of gold, silver, palladium or mokume gane metal.

Tension-122021-26

The ring is formed so that it holds the stone, usually a sapphire or diamond through tension.

Rails

Metal rails on one or two edges of the ring that can add an accent color or shape to the band.

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A strip of metal running along one or both edges of the ring, with a lightly hammered organic texture.

091622-37

Rails that run on an edge of the ring that have a scalloped or indented repeating edge.

112723-011

A strip of metal running along one or both edges of the ring, with a smooth surface.

Extra Options

Add design elements to your ring by adding a rail, liner, stratum, or ridge line to customize your band! Arn has developed the “ridge line” and the “stratum layer” as unique features that are inspired by mountain ridges, and layers of earth. Choose what suits you best!

Custom Palette

Custom billets are made to order, please contact us if interested. Additional cost will apply, pricing depends on metals used.

112322-039

The surface of the ring is hammered to make small shiny indents over the whole surface.

062822-40

Additional carving of the ring’s surface in various spots around the ring to create a subtle rippling, bumpy texture.

010524-009

The band is circular in shape on the inside, but a soft square with the corners slightly rounded on the outside.

mokume gane tension set ring with diamond in guri bori pattern and gold and silver

The ring is wider towards the top of the ring, and gradually gets narrower towards the underside of the finger.

042023-038

A layer of plain silver or gold is added to the inside of the mokume ring so that the metal against the skin isn't mokume but is instead a plain metal.

083021-9_420267898

An added ridge that sits at the center line of the band, creating a higher point resembling a mountain ridge.

062822-32

A layer of an accent color of metal that runs through the ring in a stripe.

Domed mokume gane band, 6mm wide, made in a woodgrain style pattern, with layers of red gold, palladium and oxidized silver (black).

An added layer of metal added to the surface of the ring, to highlight a specific metal color.

Finish

All mokume rings have a satin finish and are available in an etched, etch & oxidized, or un-etched finishes. The silver layer can be etched and oxidized to provide a beautiful dark contrast in the Mokume layers. Oxidizing is only offered on etched rings

050321-35

The silver layers are etched lightly to create valleys and lower patterns in the mokume. Giving the surface some texture and adding visual contrast.

050321-39

The silver layers are etched lightly to create valleys and lower patterns in the mokume, and the silver is also darkened to an almost black color by the oxidation.

050321-34

No etching of the silver layer so that all the layers of the mokume are the same and the surface of the ring is completely flush.

Profile

All mokume rings have a satin finish and are available in an etched, etch & oxidized, or un-etched finishes. The silver layer can be etched and oxidized to provide a beautiful dark contrast in the Mokume layers. Oxidizing is only offered on etched rings

112322-011

The outside profile of the ring comes to a peak at the center line of the ring, but is still gently rounded off for a soft edge, the inside is comfort fit.

flat profile crop

The edges of the ring are flat against the finger such as a cut section of pipe would be. There are no domed sides. The outside of ring is flat with eased edges, the inside is comfort fit.

081722-121

The ring is domed so that the edges against the finger are more comfortable to wear. The outside of ring has a low dome profile, rounded edges, the inside is comfort fit.

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